Often a farmer just wants a dog to drive or push from behind. This is a good skill to have in a dog as often you may need a dog at the tail of a mob.

The problem is when do you teach a dog to drive? Often the case is the person with the young pup will call the dog “in behind” every time the dog leaves the tail. The problem with this is that a “heading dog” will work opposite of the mob to the handler, therefore it ‘s instinct is willing it to get to the other side of the mob.

Here lies the problem, every time the young dog is called back or behind the dog losses some of its instinct / drive / will or desire to get to the head. Before long the dog won’t leave the vehicle / handler or tail of the mob.

Beaumaris Abbey driving ewes and lambs.

This is all well until the dog is asked to cast out around stock. The dog after being taught or reprimanded to come  behind won’t leave the handler, in my view you only have half a dog.

So when do you teach a dog to drive?

Driving should be taught only once you dog is mature and you can cast the dog confidently. You should be able to move your dog clockwise and anti clockwise while on the tail, which is the same for casting.

Once the dog has been taught to drive don’t over do it, as this will slowly have the same effect as with the young pup ( no desire to head). Allow the dog to use both of its skills, heading and driving.

Another point when driving stock is to make sure the dog or dogs when moving across the tail they go around / behind the vehicle, bike or horse. This means you have control and can make sure a dog doesn’t over work weak or young stock. Also you can distance yourself from the mob which takes the pressure off the stock, as the dogs have to travel a greater distance when moving across to the other side of the mob.

As your dogs mature you can place dogs on either side of the mob, up the sides and even in the lead.

If you have or are given a dog that is happy to drive stock but won’t leave your side to head or cast around stock you may have to go back to basics. This may be putting a few sheep in a small yard, using  a plastic garden rake or poly bag to move the dog away from you. If the dog shows signs of chasing or going around the sheep let it be, slowly the dog will get used to working stock away from the handler and you will have a more useful dog.

Today I had an interesting discussion about a dog’s age and it’s maturity with a friend. He told me about a theory that was passed on to him. This is a general theory as there is always exemptions but I think it is very pratical to keep in mind.

A 1 year old dog is like a 12 year old in human terms, then a 2 year old dog is similar to a 24 year old human. For every year after that add on 4 years eg a 3 year old dog is 28.

I think this is a good theory to keep in mind when you have a young dog, as it put things in perspective why it is important to take training gradually and not to expect a young dog to have the maturity / stamina of a much older dog.

I personally don’t give a dog under 12 months a big work load, generally short sessions of work of say 5 / 10 minutes then a rest. This may be taking stock through a gate or yarding up. As the dog matures / gains confidence and experience this is increased.

It’s a lot better to have a dog that is keen than a dog that has lost it’s interest because it has been pushed too hard too early.